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Photo Credit: www.OrchidPlants.info
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Dendrobium Phalaenopsis
These orchids are named for their strong resemblance to the phalaenopsis
bloom and were not so long ago only available at orchid growers. They
are now readily available in most garden centers.
The traditional and still most popular color is purple. However, there
is a wide selection of newer hybrids and cultivars including white,
pink, candy striped and yellow varieties.
This is a warm growing type dendrobium and individual canes can grow up
to three feet tall. They are dependable and prolific bloomers.
Tall, erect flower spikes are produced from the tip of the cylindrical
pseudobulb (cane) after foliage matures in the fall. The inflorescence
develops a graceful arch as the flowers along the stem open. Older
healthy canes will also generate spikes and sometimes produce keikies
which can be severed from the mother plant and potted up once they have
a couple of roots of their own.
Dendrobium phalaenopsis require medium to high light conditions and
generally thrive in the same environment as cattleyas. They need plenty
of water when in active growth and are strong feeders as well. We give
ours 1/2 strength 30-10-10 fertilizer with every other watering and an
occasional drench of the whole plant to flush out the growing medium. In
fact, these dendrobiums like to take a shower frequently during the
growing season. Reduce frequency of watering and fertilizing after
blooming during the colder months of the year.
Repotting must be done in the spring when new growth first emerges and
you can see the roots beginning to form. Do not repot an any other time
of the year. If you miss the timing, wait until next year.
When selecting a container remember small is best. Use a clay pot just
large enough to contain the root system comfortably. Cut off any old
dead pseudobulbs straight down through the rhizome and the old potting
mix, thereby removing old and unneeded roots as well. Put a layer of
pebbles on the bottom and pot tightly by tamping down the mix around the
root ball. We use medium fir bark with a little charcoal. Sometimes, as
a result of a small pot, the plant wants to topple over. You can either
hang the pot or place it into another larger clay pot and fill the
surrounding space with pebbles for stability.
There are several methods of propagation. The easiest is by separating
and potting any keikies that develop. If you have a mature plant with at
least six healthy canes, you can propagate it by division. This can be
done at the same time you are repotting. Be sure to leave at least 3 or
more pseudobulbs per plant. Make clean cuts through the rhizome and
leave the back portions without water for about a week after potting.
Another method of propagation is by cuttings.
Select an older but viable pseudobulb and cut into sections, each
consisting of a number of internodes. Prepare a flat of either moist
sand or sphagnum moss and lay the pieces on top, pushing down slightly
so good contact is made. Keep warm, moist and in somewhat reduced light
and you will soon see small plantlets appear which can be potted
individually once they have their own root system. |
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